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headset
overhaul
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Refer to the diagram at left for terminology and basic assembly configuration. This is the
manufacturer's stack up illustration for my particular headset.
Regular inspection and cleaning of your headset will keep your bike's handling smooth and tight. It's not a bad idea
to break it down, degrease it, clean it, and slap it back together every few months. Below is a step by step breakdown
of how to overhaul a simple headset.
As for tools, you'll need the following:
- a set of metric allen wrenches
- polyurea grease [Park Tool's Polylube 1000]
- clean and lint-free rags
- a bike stand or strong & patient friend
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Step 1:
Remove the stem & spacers
With the front wheel removed from the bike, start by loosening the stem clamp bolts which hold the stem in place on the fork's steerer tube. Next unscrew the top cap and set it aside.
The stem can now be slid up and off of the steerer tube. You can let the handlebars dangle freely. Remove the headset spacers and set them aside.
[note their order so that you can arrange them for the same stem height when you reinstall them]
Step 2:
Disassemble the upper stack
Remove the top cap, seal, compression ring and bearings. Set them aside in the order in which you removed them. It may
take a little wiggling of the fork to get the compression rings to separate and slide free from the upper stack.
Step 3:
Cleaning and inspection
Remove the fork from the head tube. With a clean and lint-free rag, wipe the grease out of the top & bottom bearing cups.
At this point you can take a few minutes to wipe the dirt and grease from the previously removed components. Take some time to
inspect these pieces for wear, cracks and deformation. Some wear on the bearing surfaces is normal, but bearings that are
rusty or have flat spots should be replaced.
Step 4:
Greasing and assembly
Time to reassemble. Apply a thin coating of polyurea grease to the fork's crown race at the bottom of the steerer tube. If you
removed a seal from this area, be sure to reinstall it. Coat the bearings with grease and set them on the crown race. Rotate them
about the race until they feel properly seated.
Next, slide the steerer tube up inside of the head tube and let the bike's weight rest on the fork. The bearings on the crown race
should find their home in the lower bearing cup.
Then apply grease to the upper bearing cup and reinstall the freshly greased components of the upper stack. It is important that these
pieces are properly seated before moving to the next step. These should align concentrically and securely when the compression ring [conical
ring] is seated. Rock the bike fore and aft to help seat these pieces.
Step 5:
Compression & alignment
Stack the spacers in the order in which they were removed. [or rearrange them if you would like to adjust the height of your stem] Slide the stem
over the steerer tube and bring it to rest on the spacers. Apply a light coat of grease to the threads of the top cap bolt and thread it
into the star nut inside of the steerer tube. Take care when tightening this bolt. If the bearing assemblies in the upper & lower stacks
are not properly seated you could deform them when tightening this bolt. Rock the bike gently fore and aft and rotate the fork to ensure
smooth and proper motion.
Do not over-tighten the top cap bolt. This bolt is used to compress the entire headset. If it is too tight it will cause binding and if it is too
loose your fork will rock within the headset and cause damage.
lastly, align the stem with the front wheel and tighten the stem's clamping bolts which grips the steerer tube. Lift the front end of the bike and
rotate the bars to check for binding etc. If everything feels good; you're done! If not repeat steps 4 & 5 until you achieve positive results.
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